Braised Rabbit Bolognese with Rigatoni
If I had a favorite Italian entree it might be pasta Bolognese. I say "if" because I don't think that you can really have an absolute favorite when there is such variety to choose from. With that being said, Bolognese is certainly the tried and true, reliable, go to dish when I am undecided. There is something about the understated simplicity of the dish that I find comforting as well as delicious. Traditionally made with beef or veal, mirepoix, and tomatoes. Usually with some red wine, occasionally with a reduction of milk, maybe with a little garlic, the flavor is just simple. Simple pairs with everything. That prosciutto appetizer or the calamari. Definitely the chianti.
More than a few years ago the featured entree at our favorite Italian restaurant was a rabbit bolognese. The chef/owner recommended it as he was seating us. He was very proud of the sauce, and I could envision him 8 hours earlier as he was cutting vegetables and braising and deboning several rabbits. I was instantly hooked, in part due to my love of Bolognese, but maybe more so because I knew what he put into it. I imagined him several weeks earlier thinking about getting a couple rabbits the next time they were reasonable, and making a Rabbit Bolognese feature. Obviously the dish did not disappoint. It was delicious. So much so that I thought, "The next time a get some rabbits, I'm making a Rabbit Bolognese."
Fast forward 10 years, and I got some rabbits. I knew just what to do with them. And I have to say, that I think my results were just as good as Antonio's. Well... almost as good.
I was fortunate enough to have access to some wild rabbits to prepare this dish. And, while it is a relatively simple dish to prepare, it does take some time to prepare well. I used the Instant Pot, so the use of a pressure cooker did speed things up a bit, and allowed me to reduce the preparation time. Usually when I prepare wild rabbits, I brine them overnight to purge the meat and mellow the flavor. In this instance I salted and rested the rabbit pieces, then soaked them in cold water for several hours. I then cooked the rabbit under pressure in red wine for 20 minutes. This purged the meat and mellowed the flavor to the point that it did not taste like game at all. Don't worry if you do not have a pressure cooker, you can make this dish with excellent results, it will just take a little longer. Regardless, the time and effort will be worth it.
- 1 Whole rabbit (wild or farm raised)
- 4 tbsp kosher salt
- 2 Each bay leaves
- 1 cup red wine
- 1 cup water
- 1 tsp black peppercorns
- 2 tbsp olive oil
- 2 Each carrots, finely diced
- 2 Stalk celery, finely diced
- 1 Each onion, diced
- 3 tbsp butter
- 1 can diced tomatoes (14 oz can)
- 1 clove garlic, minced
- 2 Each bay leaves
- 1/2 cup milk
- 3 tbsp heavy cream
- 1 lb rigatoni, cooked
- 4 oz butter
- 4 oz parmesan, shredded
- Braising the Rabbit
If using a wild rabbit:
Sprinkle generously with salt and refrigerate for 1 hour.
Place rabbit in container that can hold enough water to fully immerse rabbit.
Refrigerate overnight or at least 6 hours.
Using a sturdy knife disjoint rabbit.
Cut saddle at rib cage, discard rib sections.
Place rabbit pieces in Instant Pot.
Add equal parts of red wine and water to cover rabbit by at least 2/3's
Add bay leaves and pepper corns and cook under pressure for 20 minutes.
If preparing on stovetop, place rabbit and braising liquid into sauce pot. Cover and simmer for about 1 1/2 hours until rabbit is tender and will pull from bone.
Remove rabbit from braising liquid and allow to cool enough to handle.
Strain braising liquid through a sieve or coffee filter and reserve.
Pull meat from bone, ensuring that any tendon or cartilage is removed.
Dice finely and set aside.
Heat Instant Pot on saute' setting.
Add olive oil.
Add onion and garlic and saute' until translucent.
Add carrot and celery and stir to coat in oil.
Stir in milk and saute' until milk is reduced and mirepoix is dry.
Add tomatoes with juice, 1 cup of rabbit braising liquid and bay leaves.
Stir.
Turn off Instant Pot and cover.
Set to pressure setting and cook under pressure for 20 min.
If cooking on stovetop: Follow instructions to this point. Simmer bolognese ingredients on medium heat for 40 minutes, adding additional braising liquid if necessary.Vent Instant Pot and remove lid.
Add diced rabbit and set Instant Pot to Saute setting.
Simmer to reduce liquid to desired consistency.
Add cream and butter.
Adjust the sauciness with the reserved braising liquid.- Final Assembly
Heat butter in large saute' pan or stockpot.
Add hot pasta to pan.
Toss in half of parmesan cheese.
Season with salt and pepper.
Season pasta so it tastes good before you add the Bolognese Sauce! Add half of Braised Rabbit Bolognese to pasta and toss.
Place in large pasta bowl and top with remaining sauce and cheese.
I like this dish best with a ridged or ruffled pasta, but of course you can use your favorite pasta. Don't forget a nice crusty bread with some really good butter, and a nice simple Chianti. I think it's great with a pale ale too!